CLK 208 rubber bushings for charged air

Diskutiere CLK 208 rubber bushings for charged air im Forum Instandhaltung, Reparaturen & Pflege im Bereich Technik - Hello friends, George from Bulgaria:) I have a problem locating replacement rubber bushings for the aluminum tube in front of the MAF sensor for...
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turbinee

Frischling
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Mercedes Clk 208
Hello friends, George from Bulgaria:)

I have a problem locating replacement rubber bushings for the aluminum tube in front of the MAF sensor for the air from the intercooler. I checked with local Mercedes dealer and was told these are not in production and there is no stock at MB Germany.
These are replacement parts that can be found in BG, however the original once have a metal screw at one end instead of bolt at both ends like the new once sold here.

Here are some pics of what I am looking for...any ideas what to do?
 

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This is the part # that MB Bulgaria gave me, but the part is no longer available - A 201 504 0212

If any of you have 3 pieces to spare I would greatly appreciate it. Also if you know a source in EU from where I can order it will also work

I was thinking of using the new style that has bolts at both ends, but there is no way to install the nuts in the subframe box as it is closed.

This is picture of the style I need and the new style sold now:



Thank you
 

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Hello George,

yes, the A201 504 02 12 is unfortunately no longer available.
The the existing Hole in the Frame is probably already too large for an M6 tap, but of course You can try.

If not:
Instead of the old Thread for Sheet Metal Screw You can set an M6 Blind Rivet Nut into the Frame to use it for the new metric Thread Version.

So You need to drill the existing Hole larger with a suitable Diameter for the Blind Rivet Nut.

These Blind Rivet Nuts are available in different Materials, Aluminum, Steel and stainless Steel.
You need the suitable Rivet pliers to set the Blind Rivet Nuts.

It is very durable, if You put Rust Protection in the Drill Hole before setting the Blind Rivet Nut.

There are complete Sets (M3…M6 for Example) available - or You know a Workshop or somebody who will lend you the Tool.

IMG_1569.jpeg

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Greets
Peter
 
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Tanks coca light, that's it

I was contemplating something like this as a possible solution, but was not aware there is such a kit.

Unfortunately will have to make the holes in the subframe bigger, but at least in this way I will be able to change the rubber bushings in the future as well.

We have this kind of tool on the local market, and it comes with the rivet inserts at 50 euro, which is a good deal. There are other areas in the CLK 208 where this could also be used so thanks again.
 

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So finally had time to drill the holes and add the nut rivets. Worked out beautifully IMG_20240226_115045_copy_1500x2000.jpg
Added some zinc primer before inserting the rivet to prevent rusting as coca-light suggested.

Second picture is with 2 of the rubber bushings installed.
IMG_20240226_115035_copy_1500x2000.jpg


Finally the charged air pipe is installed in the car
IMG_20240226_140459_copy_1500x2000.jpg
And the engine bay
IMG_20240226_140518_copy_1224x1632.jpg

Everything is stock and original except for the valve cover repaint. The factory paint was lifting and I really disliked the original light beige and red cover, so now everything is black.

Many thanks to the forum for the help with this problem, the key was in the rivet nuts
 
Forgot to add; I just bought a set of assorted rivet nuts (120 pieces) and used one bolt, one nut and 2 washers to make a simple DIY rivet tool. Using the above is as simple and easy as using a rivet gun, but it is better because you can work in tight spaces while the gun is massive and unpractical to use in the engine bay.
 
Thank you for the help Peter. Yes, all black is better I think .
I am rebuilding the steering box now, have some high-speed vibrations at the steering wheel that I am trying to fix. The car rides really smooth up to 100km and then you can really feel it, and the front end is all new, so must be the box. Probably will have to ask for help again once I start to assemble the box with new gaskets and seals.
 

I am rebuilding the steering box now, have some high-speed vibrations at the steering wheel that I am trying to fix. The car rides really smooth up to 100km and then you can really feel it, and the front end is all new, …
what is exactly ment with „all“ and what did You check…?
… so must be the box.
Can You feel and see any play in the tie rod joints inside and outside or the steering knuckle ball joints?
Probably will have to ask for help again once I start to assemble the box with new gaskets and seals.
it is leaking?
 
Hi Peter, thanks for asking.
The steering box looks fine, no leaks. All ball joints, steering rod, suspension bushings, wheel bearings and A-arms are replaced with new parts. That's why I said that the whole front end is brand new . The rear suspension is also new as well as the wheel bearings and half-shafts rebuild. The driveshaft is rebuild with new donut bushings and bearing and driveshaft centering sleeves. Also engine and transmission bushings are new. The wheels and tires were checked on an electronic balancing wheel. Basically all suspension components are replaced with new parts.

The only 2 possible problems I can think of can be the steering box, if there is play and to balance the driveshaft.
I bought used steering box from a CLK in good shape without any play and want to rebuild it now and replace my old one with it. If this doesn't fix the problem I will balance the driveshaft. If that doesn't fix the problem I really don't know what else to do.
 
2 pics of my car, it's an early 1996-1997 model. I will get it working properly eventually, but it is a great ride, when couple of times to Greece with it and it was really enjoyable
IMG_20200817_164457_copy_2080x1560.jpg
IMG_20200817_164057_copy_2080x1560.jpg
 
Thema: CLK 208 rubber bushings for charged air

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